Category Archives: Peru

Mom Jeans, or Solo Woman Travel 101.2

In honor of Women’s Equality Day, I’m re-posting this good read on machismo culture and being comfortable in your own skin.

Stacey Venzel

The Mom jeans have traveled across the globe with me, debuting in South America and Europe.  But I don't think this swan cares that my pants are too short and it looks like I have no butt. The Mom jeans have traveled across the globe with me, debuting in South America, Europe and the Caribbean. But I don’t think this swan cares that my pants are too short and make me look like I have no butt.

I am 27 years old and nowhere close to being ready for motherhood, but somewhere along the way, I acquired a pair of Mom jeans. What makes a pair of jeans Mom jeans, you ask? Let me break it down for you.

  • They must be largely unflattering
  • The butt is saggy
  • There’s no hip hugging action
  • They are abhorrently straight-legged
  • They are likely too short (hello exposed ankles)

Now, I’m no fashion guru. I wear what I want when I want, and I rarely buy clothes. Sometimes I’m fashionable, sometimes I’m comfy, and sometimes I look like Sporty Spice shopping for a bag of beans at the grocery store. But…

View original post 535 more words

Peru’s “Mini Galapagos”

If you make it to Peru this summer–or ever–be sure to take a trip out to the Ballestas Islands. Tour boats leave from the coastal tourist town of Paracas. It’s worth shelling out $30 or so for the two-hour cruise through the rock island arches. You’ll see penguins, blue-footed boobies and sea lions, oh my!

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These three creatures are a unique combination found in Ecuador’s Galapagos Islands. Because of this, the Ballestas Islands have been nicknamed the “Mini Galapagos.” If you’re traveling South America and want a glimpse of the island wildlife without having to pay an arm and a leg to make it to the Galapagos (which is worth it and one day I will shell out my savings for it), then don’t miss out on this nature excursion!

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Look closely! I spot 10 penguins in this photo. How many do you see?

Sure, it’s super touristy and you have to view the animals from the boat, but it’s a rare chance to observe these creatures in their natural environment. There’s no feeding of the animals, either, so they’re not exploited.

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Depending on what time of year you go, you’ll see a hundred sea lions or a dozen. But regardless, you will see some up close and personal snoozing on guano-covered rocks. No, that’s not snow. It’s penguin poop.

Look closely in the second photo. How many penguins do you see? I count 10!

What I Learned About Love While Traveling Solo in Peru

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Some argue that love is part of the basic human condition, and therefore inescapable even in wanderlust. Come Sunday, love will certainly be unavoidable. Because Hallmark places love front and center on Valentine’s Day.

But if you’re struggling with a confused heart while your friends are flaunting engagement rings, teddy bears, flowers, cards and candy, you shouldn’t hide away in your room. Celebrate love like you celebrate life. Celebrate you.

We should really celebrate love every day. But on Valentine’s Day, we can be reminded that the most important person to love is yourself.

When I traveled solo around Peru last summer, this life lesson was made clear to me. Alone, wandering dirt paths skirting the Andes mountains, I played both teacher and student. Time alone preached to me that my worth is not defined in the eyes of a relationship. It made me see that I should always feel complete in my own skin, whether in or out of love.

For a relatively timely piece that details what I learned about love while traveling solo in Peru, read my last article here as a Feature Writer for Pink Pangea.

By Air and Sea: Paragliding in Peru & Spain, Parasailing in Florida

Avid travelers see landscapes by foot, train and bus far more often than by air or sea. But maybe we should rethink that. Scenic boat rides and bird’s eye views really put the world in perspective.

My instructor prepares me for our tandem take-off paragliding in Bilbao, Spain.
My instructor prepares me for our tandem take-off paragliding in Bilbao, Spain.

In Peru this past May, my sister treated me to a birthday paragliding trip over a small mountain range south of Lima. This was my second time paragliding after a peaceful jump of a cliff face in the Bilbao region of Spain back in 2010. Both times were humbling—though my instructor did some acrobatics in Peru that left my stomach turning! In Spain, we paralleled the dynamic line of land and sea, dually unnerving and thrilling knowing you have nothing but the wind preventing you from dropping hundreds of feet into the cold dark waters below. A hawk joined us in flight over Bilbao while a pair of caracaras danced on their wings through the sky in Peru.

For another birthday a couple years ago, my best friend from the Florida Keys and I enjoyed a birthday parasailing trip out of Key West. This was another mix of tranquility and adrenaline rushes as we soared above greens and blues and dropped for quick dips into the chop below.

Parasailing over the Florida Keys is as beautiful as it is fun!
Parasailing over the Florida Keys is as beautiful as it is fun!

All of these experiences offered me a unique look at my surroundings. Completely immersed in nature, I was at one with the birds in the sky, towering over the foreboding ocean and steep, rocky terrain. If you have the opportunity to take in your travels from a different vantage point, I say do it. It’s one thing I’ve never regretted shelling out money for. You’ll undoubtedly test your courage, have some fun and, hopefully, encounter a fleeting, memorable state of nirvana.

Finalist for Travel Essay Contest!

I am pleased to announce my travel article, “On a Terrace in Peru,” is a finalist for the I Must Be Off! writing contest. It went live on the website today.  The piece humorously captures my experience getting lost in translation while stranded on a third story terrace in Lima, Peru.

As a Top 10 Finalist, the essay is also eligible for a Readers’ Choice Award based on number of unique hits and comments.

Winners will be announced Sept. 30.

Have a good laugh on me today, and thanks for supporting my writing endeavors!  Click the link below to read the article:

http://www.imustbeoff.com/2015/08/on-terrace-in-peru-by-stacey-venzel.html

Lima, Peru

My Favorites: Restaurant Reviews

The search is always on for that vegan escape. As a potato lover, I ate to my belly's content at Hatunpa restaurant in Peru. I was greeted by this potato lady proudly displaying the types of potatoes served there.
The search is always on for that vegan escape. As a potato lover, I ate to my belly’s content at Hatunpa restaurant in Peru. I was greeted by this potato lady proudly displaying the types of potatoes served there.

Any vegan knows how difficult it can be to find a restaurant with both animal-friendly and delicious entrees. When traveling, it’s ten times harder. Sometimes you just have to bite the bullet and eat the one salad option that doesn’t charge $20 for a bed of lettuce topped with the meat you won’t eat. Sometimes you really have to specify what vegan means. In Latin America, it goes something like this:

You: “What vegan or vegetarian options do you have?”

Waiter: “No meat? Ah, okay we have chicken.”

You: “No chicken, no animals.”

Waiter: “Ah, well we have shrimp and fish!”

Nevertheless, you’ll be surprised nowadays at the vegan/vegetarian/organic spread abroad. That being said, dining out can eat up your funds when you’re a budget traveler, especially at the health food cafes. On the road, I manage to cook when I can, splurge occasionally, and otherwise just find restaurants that give me more than one option for a meal or can prepare a dish up to my specifications. Don’t be afraid to tell the waiter you have dietary restrictions. You’ll be surprised how many chefs are willing to swap out butter with olive oil.

Without further ado, I present to you a list of some of my favorite restaurants I’ve encountered while being sedentary or off gallivanting. Have you eaten at any of these places? Safeguard this list; you never know where life will take you, and knowing where you can find a good meal in a foreign land is always comforting. We all love food, especially when it’s made right.

NORTH AMERICA:

Redbud Café—Blanco, Texas

A quaint local brunch place in a quaint country town. I went here with my wildlife rehab gang on weekend mornings when I lived in the Texas Hill Country. Vegetarian at the time, I drooled over their Pear & Blue Cheese Salad. (Fun fact: The café is right across from the courthouse building where a scene from True Grit was filmed.)

Snow City Café—Anchorage, Alaska

An award-winning breakfast place, the menu is loaded with vegan and gluten-free options. It’s always busy so call ahead the day before if you’re more than one person! Smoothies and the Huevo Nuevo breakfast taco are favorites.

Jack Sprat—Girdwood, Alaska

I just… I can’t even… I wanted to eat the whole menu. So creative, so many vegan options. Some suggestions: Vegan Tacos, Yam Fries, Soup of the Day. I made inappropriate noises throughout the entire meal.

Zingo’s—Perrysburg, Ohio

Greek food at its finest in the cute historic downtown strip. Okay, so it’s my hometown, but I’m allowed to have a love affair with a hometown restaurant, am I not? (Fun fact: My dad’s office is just down the street. Do give him a hug from me if you’re in the area.)

Sublime—Fort Lauderdale, FL

Eat dessert first (coconut cake!). Then order an entrée. Any entrée. ‘Nuff said. (100% vegan. Classy, too!)

7 Mile Grill—Marathon, FL Keys

My Greek food addiction was beyond satisfied when I discovered this local joint. I can’t say enough good things about it. There are so many restaurants in the Keys, but this one lets you escape from the tourist crowd. I went at least once a week when I lived in the Florida Keys. The staff is unbelievably personable; the owner chats with you like you’re longtime friends (which we basically were after I became a regular). They will give you samples of new concoctions just because, and they’ll cook your order just the way you like it. The classic Greek Lemon Potatoes and Greek Salad (with Grape Leaves!!!) are a must.

The Café—Key West, FL Keys

A vegetarian’s dream in a city with enough restaurants to dine at every day of the year. It’s tucked away on a side street but easy enough to find. You really can’t go wrong with anything on the menu; the cuisine is all over the board. I recommend the Classic Sprouthead or the Baked Brown Sugar Acorn Squash. Enjoy the hippie vibe with local artwork and a broad color pallet.

SOUTH AMERICA:

Café Tortuga—Tena, Ecuador

This place is just too cute. Their batidos (fruit shakes) are scrumptious. The place was recommended to me by the hostel I stayed at when I went into town once a week during my summer in the Amazon, and I subsequently became a weekly breakfast regular. (Check back in the guest book from 2009!)  Great place to meet backpackers; mentioned in Lonely Planet!

Green Point Café—Cusco, Peru

Everything on this menu is delicious and fresh and vegan, but I recommend the menu del dia. You are served an appetizer, entrée, dessert and drink for the equivalent of $5. Seriously can’t beat that. Also, you’ll think you’re lost when you follow a map to this place but just stick with it. It’s in an alley off an alley off another alley.

Arlotia—Barranco district, Lima, Peru

Basque country inspired plates are served to you by a couple who relocated to South America. The food is always fresh and the menus del dia unique, often with a vegetarian option.

Hatunpa—Arequipa, Peru

A potato lover’s paradise. If you’re in Arequipa, this is the perfect opportunity to have the “potato experience” in a country home to more than 4,000 species of potatoes. This restaurant’s potato dishes offer you a handful of these species—even purple potatoes!  Lonely Planet gives it a shout out, too.

EUROPE:

Eduardo—Madrid, Spain

This local tapas bar was a favorite for my sister, and when I kicked off my 2010 solo summer travels in Europe, it started off my mornings right. I was first introduced to the simple yet delicious Latin American Pan con Tomate here, and I make it for breakfast every now and then just to transport me back in time.

Inspiral Lounge—Camden Town, London, England

Located on a canal in the trendy district of London, this ‘vegan restaurant of the year’ was the first to open my eyes to the magical culinary combinations of vegan cuisine. Fresh-tasting and unique dishes in a hip atmosphere.

CARIBBEAN:

Chez Pierre—Long Island, Bahamas

A feisty French Canadian chef who now calls this “out” island home has brought a taste of fresh, authentic French cuisine to the Bahamas. His cuisine is ranked in the top 10 in all of the Bahamas. You just have to get used to his quirky personality. He is tolerant of vegan, gluten-free diets and will do his best to accommodate. The Pesto Salad is to die for. Reservations are a must!

Sautéed Veggie Burrito Recipe (Vegan)

Asparagus was the king of this wrap.  Peruvian "choclo" was an added bonus.
Asparagus was the king of this wrap. Peruvian “choclo” was an added bonus.

Raw veggie wraps taste great, but so do sautéed veggies blanketed in a tortilla. The asparagus and corn are unique veggies to this burrito. Additionally, minimal spices are needed to give the dish flavor. The corn used in this particular dish is choclo, also known as Peruvian corn. It was, of course, widely available in Peru but might be difficult to come by outside of South America. Any type of corn will do.

Ingredients:

Asparagus, purple onion, tomato, mushrooms, ear of corn, olive oil, salt & pepper, tortillas, ½ c water

Serves: 3 people

Directions:

  • Chop the vegetables into bite-sized pieces and toss into a pan. A fresh ear of corn is preferable to frozen or canned corn. If available, stand the cob vertically and slice from top to bottom the length of the corn, catching the fallen kernels.
  • Steam the vegetables by pouring the water into the pan. (You might need to add or subtract water based on the amount of vegetables you are using.) Asparagus and corn should be added first, tomatoes last. Stir often over medium heat up to a few minutes before the vegetables become tender.
  • Sauté the vegetables in olive oil on a lower heat setting until tender.
  • Add in salt and pepper to taste.
  • If desired, warm the tortillas in another pan on the stove top on low heat.
  • Scoop some of the vegetable mix onto your tortilla and fold over as best you can.
  • Serve, eat, enjoy!
Toss all the veggies in the pan for some sauteeing action!
Toss all the veggies in the pan for some sauteeing action!

Quinoa with Tomatoes & Parsley Recipe

Leftover parsley inspired me to make this quinoa dish.  Tri-colored quinoa was used here, but any quinoa will do.
Leftover parsley inspired me to make this quinoa dish. Tri-colored quinoa was used here, but any quinoa will do.

It’s time for a recipe with my favorite super food, the protein-rich, vitamin-infused quinoa! While in Peru, I had access to ample quinoa as the seed hails from this Incan empire. A multitude of quinoa varieties exist with white, red and black being the most common. The white is the least tart of the three, so it is often the most preferred and most readily available. The recipe below used tri-color quinoa, but any type of quinoa will do. Quick tip for cooking quinoa: add 2 parts water to 1 part quinoa, bring to a boil, then simmer with lid for about 10-15 minutes, stirring occasionally until all water has been soaked up. Rinsing is recommended to wash off the seed coats before cooking.

Ingredients:

Quinoa, tomato, raw garlic, fresh parsley, ½ key lime, olive oil, salt & pepper

Directions:

  • Cook the quinoa.
  • Stir in a few tablespoons of olive oil, half a key lime and salt & pepper.
  • Mince 2-4 garlic cloves (depending on serving size and garlic preference).
  • Chop 1-2 tomatoes.
  • Chop the fresh parsley.
  • Add the garlic, tomatoes and parsley. Mix together.
  • Serve, eat, enjoy!

Mom Jeans, or Solo Woman Travel 101.2

The Mom jeans have traveled across the globe with me, debuting in South America and Europe.  But I don't think this swan cares that my pants are too short and it looks like I have no butt.
The Mom jeans have traveled across the globe with me, debuting in South America, Europe and the Caribbean. But I don’t think this swan cares that my pants are too short and make me look like I have no butt.

I am 27 years old and nowhere close to being ready for motherhood, but somewhere along the way, I acquired a pair of Mom jeans. What makes a pair of jeans Mom jeans, you ask? Let me break it down for you.

  • They must be largely unflattering
  • The butt is saggy
  • There’s no hip hugging action
  • They are abhorrently straight-legged
  • They are likely too short (hello exposed ankles)

Now, I’m no fashion guru. I wear what I want when I want, and I rarely buy clothes. Sometimes I’m fashionable, sometimes I’m comfy, and sometimes I look like Sporty Spice shopping for a bag of beans at the grocery store. But if someone is willing to give me clothes for free, I say hurray for hand-me-downs! More savings for my travels! Luckily, I have a lot of girlfriends who excessively shop and so I get their hand-me-downs after the new purchase becomes outdated 3 months later. But Mom jeans? Seriously?

I acquired a pair of holey jeans from a friend recently. The kind that makes your father scorn, “Those jeans came like that?” or “You spent how much on jeans with holes in them?” Luckily, I can tell him both, “I actually got these jeans for free” and “These holes came with it and this one is the result of my tree climbing skills.” But those pants are packed up nicely in my home base back in the Bahamas. The only pair of jeans that came with me in my 15-gallon backpack to trek around Peru were my Mom jeans. Again, I ask, Mom jeans? Seriously?

Surprisingly, packing these jeans was a conscious decision, not a mistake. I have made 6 trips to Latin America, and I was immersed in the Cuban culture while I lived in the Florida Keys for 3 years. I know that you get whistled at, fawned over, harassed as a white female—a gringa—in a Latin American country. I love the culture, but I hate that part of it. Like really-want-to-scream-at-the-next-guy-who-hassles-me hate that part of it.

So I looked at the clothing options laid before me while packing for this trip on a whim. The holey jeans are much more trendy and flattering, while the Mom jeans border on warranting a call from the Fashion Police. But I didn’t want to attract any more attention by showing off my skin when I already stuck out as a white girl. I wasn’t traveling to impress anyone. In fact, I was taking off to spend some quality time with me. Any people I met along the way would surely not judge whether or not to strike up a conversation with me based on what pants I was wearing. Surely not. Silly world we live in.

I’ve learned that traveling buddies aren’t made by judging a book by its cover. Once-overs don’t really precede making new friends all the way across the globe. Someone takes the empty seat by you on a bus, you chit-chat, connect and that’s it. Easy peasy. Solo travelers, globetrotters, nomads, wanderers—we are kindred souls. There’s an instant, natural connection between people of different countries that meet in yet another country, people who share a common love of culture and nature and the unknown. It’s unexplainable, incomprehensible to anyone who hasn’t experienced it. They simply cannot understand how very real and true and beautiful these friendships are. But they exist, Mom jeans or not.

And so on the cold mornings when I button my Mom jeans in Peru, I don’t question how attractive my butt looks while I’m walking to the market. I make new friends. I walk with confidence, and that’s the most fashionable outfit a woman can wear.

The Mom jeans have even made appearances on stage, as seen here with the West Side Story dance troupe. (Mom jeans pictured far right.)
The Mom jeans have even made appearances on stage, as seen here with my West Side Story dance troupe. (Mom jeans pictured far right.) Mom jeans photo credit: Kris Teague.

How-to Guide to Machu Picchu

A lot of people have been contacting me for information about my recent trek to Machu Picchu. These ancient ruins are on many bucket lists, and after my hike, I can see why! For anyone looking to visit this picturesque region, I’ve written a “how-to” guide below. Leave a comment with any further questions and I’ll try my best to respond… if I’m traveling in an area with reliable Internet!

The ancient Inca ruins of Machu Picchu with Huayna Picchu mountain in the background.
The ancient Inca ruins of Machu Picchu with Huayna Picchu mountain in the background.

FLIGHT

First, arrange a flight from Lima to Cusco. Cusco is the mountain town from which all hikes and trains to Machu Picchu embark. Peruvian, LAN, Avianca and Star airlines are currently options for the short hour-and-a-half flight. LAN has the most flights per day and so tends to be more expensive. Flights start at 5 AM and leave almost hourly through the evening, depending on the airline. Note that some airlines have a special price just for residents of Peru, so be aware that the cheapest might not be an option for you. Use Google search & Google translator for any clarification. Tripadvisor.com also has some helpful tips for understanding the different prices. As a general rule of thumb, airlines will offer a BASE, BASE PLUS, FLEXIBLE and FULL FLEXIBLE ticket. Foreigners want to get the BASE PLUS ticket. BASE is for Peruvians only and FLEXIBLE and FLEXIBLE PLUS are only necessary if you think there’s a chance you may be canceling or changing your flight. (If you book the super cheap BASE flight, you will be charged an extra $178.50 at the airport for booking a ticket you aren’t eligible for!)

You will have to take a taxi from the airport to your accommodation in Cusco. See if your hotel/hostel can arrange for a pick-up for you. They will be sure to book you with a safe driver and can suggest how much you will have to pay (usually around S./ 20). You would give the hotel your flight schedule and a driver will be waiting for you at the airport holding a sign with your name on it. Wait a few minutes if they aren’t there right away; sometimes traffic is heavy. Plus, you’re in Latin America where everyone is late.

ALTITUDE ACCLIMATION

Expect to spend 2 nights in Cusco prior to the start of your travels to Machu Picchu, whether you will be going via trek or train. Don’t think you’re superhuman and can beat the mountain! Altitude sickness can be very serious and affects even the healthiest and strongest of individuals. It is best prevented by staying and resting at a high altitude prior to exerting excessive physical activity at such elevations. You can also try chewing coca leaves during your climb.  Coca tea is an option but it’s more of a touristy thing than a preventative.  Ask a local for advice on how to chew the leaves–it’s quite an art.  Headaches, shortness of breath and dizziness are all symptoms of altitude sickness. But you’ll be fine; just take it easy!

The city of Cusco lit up at night.  Tour agencies line the streets jutting from the main plaza, called the Plaza de Armas.
The city of Cusco lights up at night. Tour agencies line the streets jutting from the main plaza, called the Plaza de Armas.

CUSCO ACCOMODATION

For your nights in Cusco—usually 2 nights before the trip to Machu Picchu and one night after—there are numerous reliable sites online for booking. Try oyster.com or airbnb.com if you’re not into the hostel life. Oyster has great hotel reviews; Airbnb offers great ways to experience a quiet homestay with a local perspective! If you’re up for meeting lots of new people, try hostelworld.com or hostelbookers.com. Not all hostels are party hostels, and many places have all-female and private dorms available for all sorts of travelers! Hotels are also an option but I like to keep it cheap, sociable and local.  Be sure to read reviews!

TREK

It is only necessary to book a trek online if you are planning on hiking the traditional Inca Trail, which needs to be booked 6 months in advance due to limited space and popularity. The Peruvian government recently reduced the number of people allowed to enter the trail each day to 500 persons, and the trail can ONLY be accessed under the supervision of a licensed travel agency. Some agencies don’t offer the Inca Trail hike because they don’t have the permit. The Inca Trail is more expensive than the alternative Salkantay and Lares treks as you need to pay for your own permit and, aforementioned, it is a more coveted hike than the others. However, the Salkantay is ranked by National Geographic as one of the top 25 hikes in the world. I hiked it and loved it! All of the hikes are challenging, but it makes your time at Machu Picchu incredibly rewarding. You worked for this; you deserve it! That kind of thing. The Inca Trail follows a path past numerous ruins leading up to the ultimate mega-ruin, Machu Picchu. The Salkantay and Lares take you through more landscapes and climate changes. The Salkantay covers more distance but does not reach as high of an elevation as the Lares (4680m vs 4900m).

We did it!  At the highest altitude of the Salkantay trek, 4680 meters.
We did it! At the highest altitude of the Salkantay trek, 4680 meters.

Prices vary greatly. Online prices for an agency will be double what you can haggle if you stop by the agency yourself once in Cusco. The Salkantay and Lares always have space available, though it is more competitive during busy season (our summer, their winter—June-August). The alternative treks run anywhere from $250-$450/person off the street (double online!), with the Inca Trail being closer to $600+. If you are booking in person like I did, BARGAIN BARGAIN BARGAIN. You will learn that everyone in your hiking group paid a different price, so don’t be the one who got ripped off! Also, be sure to research the tour agencies you stop at before booking anything. Does the tour include EVERYTHING or are there some things missing? Does the agency have a website? What kind of reviews does it have on Tripadvisor?

Treks range from 3-5 nights. The last night is spent in a hostel (typically pre-arranged by your tour agency) while the other nights are spent in tents. You can bring your own tent but most agencies provide them for you. Sleeping bags and walking sticks are available for rent from most agencies, too.

https://i0.wp.com/www.peru-travel.net/peru.gif
To begin your trip to Machu Picchu, you will fly from Lima, Peru’s coastal capital city, to the inland mountain city of Cusco. Machu Picchu and the town of Aguas Calientes are slightly north/northwest of Cusco and accessible by train.

Most agencies also provide all of your meals except breakfast on the first day and lunch and dinner on the last day; the meals will be included in your booking price. Ask about vegetarian and vegan options which are also available! If you book with a reliable group, they will also offer you snacks and hot tea throughout the trek. Water is best when boiled or bottled, though sterilization tablets can be purchased ahead of time. However, there are a lot of trace minerals that remain in the water once purified with these tablets, and the water might still upset your stomach. Again, reliable agencies will give you boiled water to pour into your bottle for the hike. You will pass through many small villages that also offer hikers bottled water and snacks, so bring extra soles (the Peruvian currency) for this.

It is important to clarify if you have to carry your large backpack or camping equipment most of the trip, or if mules (or sometimes porters) will carry it for you. Some people like the challenge of carrying 7+ kilos a minimum of 15 km/day up and down rocky, steep terrain. I, however, was content to have just my daypack strapped to my back!

Tour groups usually meet the evening prior to departure for a briefing. You should get picked up the morning of at your hostel or hotel accommodation. Expect to have early mornings—hiking begins between 4-6 AM each day! Transportation back to Cusco is usually included as well. The agency books your train from Aguas Calientes (the town you will spend the last night in at the base of Machu Picchu) to Ollantaytambo, and from there you will get on a “bus” (usually a white van referred to as a “colectivo”). Drivers are at the train station with signs that have your name on them. You just join up with them and hop on in!

Also remember you’ll have to tip the porters/horsemen, cook and guide when they leave you. How much is up to you, but most of the workers from the village rely solely on tips. Guides are usually on salary but worthy of a tip.

moneda_sol
Peruvian currency is called the nuevo sol, or soles, and abbreviated S./ or PEN. US dollars are accepted and can be withdrawn from an ATM to limit conversion fees charged by your bank. National money exchangers wearing vests with badges are on the streets outside of banks; they can swap your USD for PEN or vice versa. Make sure you research the day’s exchange rate online if using both currencies.

CURRENCY

USD ($) are accepted by most tourist companies and restaurants throughout Peru.  In fact, prices are often only listed in US dollars! However, have handy plenty of PEN (also abbreviated S./ and referred to as the Peruvian Nuevo sol, or plural soles). Smaller, local shops will not have a lot of change available either, so be sure to have a lot of 1, 2 and 5 PEN coins with you. You can break big bills at the grocery store or restaurants. In fact, always try to pay with bigger bills at these places as you will otherwise find yourself hard-pressed to obtain smaller currency! And remember, you’ll want to have Peruvian money with you along the way during your hike (breakfast on day 1, meals on the last day, tips for the tour staff, souvenirs, snacks, bottled water).

WHAT TO BRING

Regardless of the weather forecast, it is important to be prepared for rain, cold and heat. Peru is near the equator, too, so the UV is strong even on cloudy days! Remember, tour groups provide different things, so don’t rely solely on this list!

  • Hiking shoes
  • Warm weather clothing
  • Cold weather clothing (hat & mittens recommended!)
  • Rain jacket
  • Sunscreen
  • Bug spray
  • Toilet paper
  • Water bottle
  • Sleeping bag (?)
  • Extra money
  • Head lamp or flashlight + extra batteries
  • Snacks

OTHER THINGS TO KNOW

Every experience is different—weather, crowds, tour agency, agility. But here are some additional options to improve your once-in-a-lifetime Machu Picchu experience—so you can feel really good about checking it off your bucket list!

  • Trek prices include the entrance ticket to the Machu Picchu ruins only. Currently, 2500 people are allowed to enter the ruins each day. Ask your agency to add on Machu Picchu Mountain ($5) for the typical yet beautiful panoramic view looking down on the ruins. Huayna Picchu Mountain tickets are also available but limited in number (200 people between 7-11 AM, 200 people after 11 AM). This hike is very steep! Experienced climbers only!
  • The Salkantay and Lares can be hiked without a tour group if you fancy.
  • If you have time, stay a night in the village of Ollantaytambo on your way back from Machu Picchu. Tour agencies can accommodate you if you want your travel plans to veer slightly from their agenda. It is a quaint, quieter village in comparison to the touristy Aguas Calientes and Cusco.

    View from Machu Picchu Mountain overlooking the ruins and Huayna Picchu Mountain.  Another difficult hike, but short and well worth the view!  Tickets to both mountains can be purchased in addition to the ruins.
    View from Machu Picchu Mountain overlooking the ruins and Huayna Picchu Mountain. Another difficult hike, but short and well worth the view! Tickets to both mountains can be purchased in addition to the ruins.
  • Get a massage in Cusco after your hike! You will be annoyed at first by all the ladies on the street asking you if you want a massage, but when you finish your hike, you’ll understand why they’re hounding you! These ladies are typically reliable, but you can check with your hostel/hotel for a recommendation if you’re concerned. The massages are cheap and goooooooood!
  • Most tour groups take the bus from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu, which is included in the tour price, but the group disbands after your tour in the ruins. Hence, a return bus is not included but can be purchased at the park entrance for about S./40 one-way. Buses are always available and leave when filled with passengers. There is no time schedule. Buses start heading to the ruins from the bus station at 5:30 AM. If you’re not with a group, be sure to wake up early to beat the crowd and catch the sunrise!
  • It is possible to hike from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu, but the hike is largely on the road and you won’t be missing out on much if you choose to take the bus.
  • Some tours include a train ride at the end of the camping leg of the trip from Hydro Electric Station to Aguas Calientes. If you choose to walk, it takes about 2 hours and is worthwhile. But your legs might feel like jelly from walking downhill all day, and the train ride offers nice views as well. This part of the hike largely follows along the train tracks.
    • If you don’t want to do a hike, it is still recommended to acclimate as there is a fair amount of climbing at the ruins themselves. You would have to book a train from Cusco to Urubamba Valley/Aguas Calientes and book the train back to Cusco. It is possible to do Machu Picchu all in one day but I recommend staying overnight either in Aguas Calientes or Ollantaytambo. (If you stay in Ollantaytambo, you will need to book a separate train back to Cusco or catch a much cheaper “colectivo” bus back.) There are 3 train options available. The Expedition is the cheapest, most common and quite comfortable. The Vistadome is a step up from the Expedition, and the Hiram Bingham luxury train is outta this world fancy (and expensive).